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Rating: Standard, very good traditional Roman espresso
Here’s another nice surprise in a street chock-full of cafes. The Dolce Kosher Bar-Cafe and Pasticceria is on Via Fonteiana, along some other great and not so great cafes. It has a lot of competition, and in tasting its coffee, I can see why it probably has a loyal clientele. The bar belongs to a nice row of Jewish stores that serve everything from Kosher meats, to a great tobacco store, and this wonderful pastry shop to finish the experience.
It was early when I took my coffee, and they had opened 30 minutes before… so take this into consideration. When I order a coffee I get this:
Presentation: No water asked, but felt they’d give it to me if asked. Also, quite early, so usually water is served in the later morning or afternoon. Clean cup, nice drip on it from being pulled while the shot was still flowing. Interesting cup!
Temperature of Cup: The cup was rather lukewarm. Not hot, not cold, but again, I think this is probably because the espresso machine was probably still warming up to temperature. Not a bad thing.
Quantity: I liked the shortness of the espresso. It was almost a ristretto, and good, because this cup was short, stout, and could have been overfilled by anybody else…
Temperature: Here’s the key to this espresso’s quality. The temperature was on the cold side. I liked this. It let me taste the darned thing! But again, I would want to see how this espresso tastes around 10am after a full slew of shots were pulled… I have the feeling the machine was cold and my espresso was the second or third of the day.
Volume/Consistency: Water, quite watery… but all is not lost!
Crema: As you can see, there’s some texture to the crema, and it was getting light right as the barista pulled the cup out. The crema was thin, reflecting the low brew temperature.
Odor: A very light odor of roasted coffee, not too strong, not weak. Quite pleasant to say the least!
Taste: Quite nice. It as bitter, but since it wasn’t scalding, after swishing it around my mouth for 2 seconds I could taste a sweetness to the coffee. It was actually good. Watery, but good.
Overall: I was very pleased by this espresso. It wasn’t scalding hot, it wasn’t rancid, nor overly bitter. It was strong with a hint of smooth sweetness behind it. If I would have had a cornetto with it, it would have been a terrific start of the day. Among its coffee peers on this Monteverde fairway here, it stands out as the most balanced espresso. Really juggling between short and robust, and sweetness. Will definitely return!
The setup: La Cimbali espresso machine, with either a Cimbali grinder or a Mazzer-esque incarnation. Decent, good and honed in properly. They’re serving Tazza d’Oro coffee, which I’ve had at the flagship store (and I’ll do a review about it), but here they’re serving a better version of it than at the Pantheon locale!
The pastries are quite nice here and all in-store produced. The locale has a lot of interior space and always has people lounging about, discussing things and reading the newspapers. A great place to chill.
Dolce Kosher, D. Kappa S.R.L.
Via Fonteiana, 18/A
00152 Roma
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